Blue Skies and Big Winds

The choppy water in the bay at sunrise was a clue as to what kind of day it might be. The north wind had blown out the rain from the night before; thus, it was going to be sunny and blustery.

Heading out of Digby, I took beautiful back roads around the Joggins, and then got on some hilly terrain, especially heading in and out of Bear River, which was a beautiful little spot. I smelled the coffee roasting at the Sissboo Roastery, but it was too early in the morning to stop, and besides I didn’t want to lose my momentum. Thank goodness I kept going, because the left hand turn at the top of the hill was about all I could manage.

The Bear River Winery sat high above the valley, and further along I saw, for the first time, a sign for quails and ducks crossing. How I wished they had crossed as I pedalled past.

Once I got to Deep Brook, I got on Hwy 1, formerly the main highway, before they put in the 101, which runs right up the valley.

The traffic was pretty light, and people gave me a wide berth, so it felt safe and relatively peaceful.

With the wind and hills, I was making slow progress, but the sun and blue sky offset any sense of urgency. I had 145 km to go, and lots of time to get there.

I stopped in Annapolis Royal, a lovely town with beautifully maintained Victorian homes, and it was hopping with tourists wandering its streets, though at a quiet volume. Disneyland it is not. I went into the Red Onion Market, a whole food store not unlike the Stone Store in Guelph, with a lovely patterned tin ceiling and hardware floors, and chatted with the owner who had moved with her family from Ontario just before Covid. The store has been a food store of some kind for over 200 years, and the property is still owned by the original family. She recommended the Sissiboo coffee, so with latte in hand, I wheeled my bike over to a lovely picnic spot, overlooking the water.

Having also picked up an oatcake or two for the road, I got back on the bike and started pushing into the wind. As the day went on the traffic picked up, and the quality of the road deteriorated. By the time I got to Middleton, where they were working on the road, the white line marking the shoulder was more like a trough, making it difficult to stay just to the left or right of the line.

I stopped to check my map, and decided to head north and take the 221 east. It would add at least ten km to the day, but it would be worth it for a more peaceful ride.

The Annapolis valley is shouldered by the north and south mountain, and I was going to have to ride partway up north mountain to get to the 221. Except that since there was no sign for the 221 as I went north, I missed the turn, and climbed all the way up the mountain, including 13% grades. At this point I had very little signal, so checking the map yielded primarily a white grid. Nothing to do but turn around and come back down the mountain. Of course as I descended, there was a sign for the 221 East that was essentially a billboard saying turn left here you gormless wonder. Oh well, just another hill under my belt. And another 10 km to my day.

The 221 was in great shape, though, and relatively quiet, with beautiful views on both sides, so I continued to wind my way slowly toward Wolfville.

Finally arriving just past 6:00, I double-checked the location of the Old Orchard Inn where I had booked a cottage; it was outside of town, partway up the south mountain, so I stopped to get groceries, as I wasn’t about to head to its dining room in my cycling attire.

With sandwich, salad, lots of fresh fruit, and some breakfast fare, I climbed back on the bike and rode the last km, finishing at 173 km and 1800 meters of climbing for the day. And it felt like 1800 meters. Coupled with the wind tossing me about all day, I was spent.

How lovely then to arrive at my cottage. I splurged on this one, gentle reader. You will laugh, but I have never stayed at a cottage with a white robe left folded on my bed for me. The place has all the charm I could ask for and more.

After unpacking, showering, and inhaling my dinner, I collapsed on the bed, and had the most wonderful sleep. Now I have the day to visit some of my favourite spots in and around Wolfville. I was going to ride up the north mountain to the Lookoff, but am not sure I can force myself up that steep climb again.  Will let you know how far I get.