So Many Lakes to Explore

My second day on the bike turned out to be a 200 km ride, and by the time I rolled into the campground, showered and hustled down to the shore to catch a glimmer of the sunset, I was too spent to write.

Thus, here I am at the end of day three, trying to recall the beginning of yesterday’s ride, which already seems so long ago. There is something about crossing the border that seems to expand a sense of time and space, when in reality, it took me a matter of minutes, maybe less, to ride across the Peace Bridge. The signage for pedestrians and cyclists is excellent, and the pedestrian walkway allowed me to ride at a distance from the traffic.

When I got to the customs office, I had to wait about 20 minutes for an officer to come on duty, but after asking me a few perfunctory questions I was on my way.

I thought navigating Buffalo might be dicey, but I got on the designated bike path, which separated from traffic, and though the views of the rather rundown looking buildings might not have been inspiring, I felt very safe.

Once I got on the Erie Canal Trail, which is part of the larger Empire State Trail, things started looking much better, and the further I got away from Buffalo and Tonawanda, the prettier the trail got. I would say the loveliest section I rode on was between Lockport and Rochester. I saw lots of wildlife, including dozens of herons, and I also saw some great old boats, chugging down the canal, their owners waving happily at me on the shore.

I was grateful for the trail as a means of circumnavigating Rochester, and I only had to endure its commuter traffic for a few kms before it thinned out, on the road heading south to Lake Conesus.

I finished the day flying along the lake’s west shore on a newly paved road; with the late afternoon light, it was my kind of perfection.

Arriving at the campground, I discovered it was situated on a steep hill across the road from the lake. When I say steep, I mean I pushed my bike up the hill to my charming cabin in the woods. The reality was I had the entire campground to myself, but for its owners. I didn’t mind the solitude, and felt safe knowing they were on site.

The temperatures dipped down to 8 degrees overnight; consequently, I was grateful for the heated cabin, and the microwave allowing me to boil water for coffee this morning.

After bundling up with a vest, arm sleeves, gloves and leg warmers, I rolled out into a sunny morning, and was greeted almost immediately with my first steep hill on a very quiet road. It was so quiet, that two deer stood in the middle of the road watching my laboured progress up. Alas they didn’t wait to greet me, but instead leapt off into the woods.

That hill was just one of many today. In fact, I was either climbing or descending for most of the ride, leaving me grateful that it was a “shorter” day.

Canadice Lake was the first lake I stopped at, and my favourite, as it was completely undeveloped due to being a water reservoir for Rochester.

The rest of the lakes I rode by were heavily developed. With most of the land being owned privately, it was difficult to find a spot to stop and take photos.

When I got to Canandaigua, I got on a rail trail that has been developed by Ontario Pathways, a local organization. I meandered along on it for a time, enjoying the sheltered path, but after a few miles I felt the need to pick up the pace, so I got back on the roads, and finished the day with a nice tailwind coming into Penn Yan.

After yesterday’s long ride, and today’s 1600 meters of climbing, I am ready for an early night. Already my eyes are starting to close.

Tomorrow I will explore the shorelines of Seneca and Cayuga lakes, and then head to Cortland, where I am staying at a nice family owned motel.

I am so grateful to be back exploring, and to be having such lovely weather in which to enjoy the fall colours.